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9. Research how to build a speaker box that is high quality.
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Lay out the pieces and fit them together prior to gluing. Make marks on the front or back indicating which part is which and the sides that match up.
Make sure the angles at the tops, sides and bottom match as they should. Try to stack the entire speaker together on its side. Then take it back apart labeling the pieces as you disassemble.
Get familiar with how the pieces fit together, what they do and where they are placed.
This process may take a few hours but you will see how the speaker box design works as a system and may notice which parts need some more work and fine tuning.
Make sure to use P2000 construction adhesive.
This is polyurethane glue that forms an incredible bond between the layers of the cabinet. This stuff is incredible.
I don’t know of any better bonding glue for MDF, Birch Plywood or any type of wood. It gets rock hard too so if you mess up you can sand it down with an orbital sander. It also works great for filling edges, voids, nail holes, etc.
When you begin gluing your speaker cabinet together start with the inner front baffle alternate, back baffle, top baffle, bottom baffle, and one side baffle. Leave one side of the speaker box design completely open for final assembly, acoustic stuffing, wiring etc.
Use a router and sander to trim the pieces as you go along for correct fit. (After they dry)
When pressing the parts together use boards under the clamp heads to spread out the pressure so that you don’t get any wavy surfaces.
Use a linoleum glue spreader to comb a nice thin layer of glue to one of the surfaces prior to sticking them together. Excess glue may not allow for a flat press of the surfaces. You can use the glue more liberally on the inner rib braces.
When gluing together the panels you will want to have the glue spread evenly and uniform in depth. Do not just squirt the glue out of the caulk gun tube in lines and stick the panels together. You will have voids and high points if you do this. The cabinet walls will not be flat.
Use the glue comb and cover the entire surface with a thin layer of glue. Trim the glue off the edges with a razor when it dries before joining any surfaces.
The back baffle is built as an assembly prior to beginning final construction. But the side panels and front baffle is a group of layers or sub assemblies. These must be fitted carefully and trimmed until they fit perfect. Take your time.
You may wish to assemble the outer layer one piece at a time (over the inner cabinet assembly) clamping in place and allowing glue to dry before fitting the next piece.
After drying, trim each piece with a flat router bit and apply the next section. This will ensure that the edges match up perfectly on the outer cabinet layer.
Place the front baffle 45 degree corner pieces last. These pieces sit against the main cavity body and the front baffle.
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If you use concrete run a bunch of screws from bottom to top prior to filling the gap. This will lock the concrete and the braces together in multiple places. Use about 10 screws spaced out evenly. (Not overly critical) Fill the void with concrete after the screws are in place. If you fill with sand don’t use any screws.
The space between the upper and lower cavity serves to damp the pressures so that sympathetic pressures and vibrations are not carried into the rear of the speaker drivers diaphragms of one another.
The bottom (below the sub drivers) cabinet void could also be filled with some type of compound (lead, concrete, sand).
If you use sand I would fit an extra blank-solid-brace below the perforated one (at the bottom of cabinet) so that if you tip the speaker on its side during moving -you don’t have sand rolling into the back of the speaker cones.
Fitting a solid piece beneath the perforated brace would seal the bottom chamber for a sand fill.
You could also fill this void with concrete for some added mass as I did. Make sure to give it a wavy inconsistent texture to help with standing waves.
The internal perforated cabinet braces act like the weapon silencer or “gun silencer”.
As sound pressure leaves one rib it flares out striking the next one. As it passes through multiple perforated ribs it encounters your cabinet stuffing (wool or fiberglass) and is deadened a bit each time it passes another one.
This method works very well for damping internal resonance (just like a gun silencer works).
The standing wave braces are placed at an angle between the perforated braces. These keep sound waves from bouncing from the front and back baffles freely.
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The angle interrupts this bounce and encourages the pressure to travel up and down through the gun silencer style perforations.
Use the Best Speaker Cabinet Hardware you can afford. Use good binding Posts, speaker screws, hurricane nuts, metal wood inserts (for speaker screws) etc.
When I watch a movie or listen to a music album, I want to forget about the technology or speaker box theory and just listen.
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"Peter, I just wanted to drop you a quick note and say how impressed I am with these speakers. They are EXACTLY what I was looking for..very very small with big sound.
My wife loves them as well. They look great, and you hardly notice them at all sitting on the shelf. They integrate perfectly as surrounds. I have them crossed over at 150 as you recommended...simply fantastic. I only have about 15 hours on them so far, so I know they will only get better. You really have something here. Kelly ~ Montana USA
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These speakers are more than capable of playing at volume levels louder than I ever need while also maintaining very high quality sound. ~by; William (Corinth,TX)
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